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| Leave it to the pro. Michael Dresdner, a nationally known wood finishing and woodworking expert, has answered hundreds of common wood finishing questions in Varathane’s Q&A library to help you successfully complete your project. Click on a link to the left for help and solid advice. |
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| Q: We got light areas on refinished kitchen cabinets where stain did not soak into the wood, because these areas are still sealed apparently. To rework these areas, we are planning on using the stripper again and be more patient as you recommended. What tools do you suggest to use in order to reach deep into the grain without damaging the surfaces?
A: A stiff, synthetic bristle scrub brush will do a great job of dislodging finish in pores, but only after the paint remover has been on long enough to soften the finish all the way down into the pores. For inside corners, a wooden dowel sharpened at one end to a pencil point and the other to a skewed wedge will also be a handy tool, as will some fine nylon abrasive pads. |  | |
| Q: What do I need to do in preparation to apply new stain over tired out, already stained, woodwork? I will use a similar color.
A: I’m guessing you mean already finished wood work. Remember, stain is merely color, and must be topped with finish. Because wood stain is designed to go onto raw wood, it will be blocked by finish, and when you wipe it off, will pretty much all come off. In other words, it is not the ideal material to use to rejuvenate finished furniture. There are some other good choices though. Scratch cover, which is polish laced with stain, will work to hide a lot of little scratches. For more egregious ones, you might want to go with touch up markers. You can also add more color over all, or selectively, with One-Step Stain and Poly in an aerosol can, a tinted top coat. No matter what you choose to do, start by cleaning the wood surface first by scrubbing with mineral spirits or TSP on fine white nylon abrasive pads. The solvent will remove any surface grease or oil. | | |
| Q: I’m working on a vanity. The prior owner painted it white. I’ve sanded it down but there are little white spots in the grain all over. I’ve sanded it a lot already. What would be the best way to get them out?
A: Use paint remover, which is what you probably should have done in the first place. There are several problems associated with sanding off finish. One you have already discovered; sandpaper removes paint in a flat plane, but finish follows the non-planar surfaces of the wood. For instance, it goes into the pores, but the sandpaper does not. Chemical paint remover, paired with a stiff bristle scrub brush, will get that out. | | |
| Q: I am refinishing an antique dresser with a tiger oak veneer surface. It has been stripped. Should I be sanding the surfaces in preparation for the finish application?
A: It’s not a bad idea, but you only want to sand enough to make sure the piece is clean on the wood not oxidized. Usually a light sanding with 220 or 320 grit paper is enough. Although sanding is not always necessary after stripping, it takes some experience to gauge whether the surface is clean enough, and a light sanding is an excellent insurance policy. |
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