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| Leave it to the pro. Michael Dresdner, a nationally known wood finishing and woodworking expert, has answered hundreds of common wood finishing questions in Varathane’s Q&A library to help you successfully complete your project. Click on a link to the left for help and solid advice. |
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| Q: I’ve heard of a process of finishing small items, such as lathe turned pens and knife handles, with cyanoacrylate adhesive (CA). Can you describe the process for this?
A: There are two ways to do this. You can flood CA onto the wood, wipe it off, let it cure, sand smooth and repeat, or go the method I favor; flood the wood with boiled linseed oil, wipe off whatever is not absorbed, then start the CA process. Boiled linseed oil will cure to a solid almost immediately after it comes in contact with CA. The result is a durable finish coat with the warmth of oil. You can omit the oil during subsequent coats of CA. Work fast, wear gloves and eye protection, and use only throwaway applicators such as paper shop towels, since you will need a new one each time you apply CA. |  | |
| Q: What are the pitfalls and hazards of applying a film finish a day after an oil finish has been applied?
A: That depends on what the film finish is and how quickly the oil finish dries. Simply put, any time you put a film finish over uncured oil finish you risk two things; the finish may not cure properly, or the finish may cure and later peel or chip. You risk the same two things if you put an incompatible film finish over an oil based one. However, you can almost always get away with putting another coat of oil based finish over an oil finish, even if the latter is only partially cured, though it will prolong the total drying time.
The bottom line is that you should let the oil finish dry thoroughly before you move on to another finish atop it. How long that takes depends on a number of factors. A very fast drying oil finish, wiped on and wiped off completely then set in a warm, dry room will probably be dry overnight. On the other hand, a slower drying finish, or one applied more heavily, or one set in a less accommodating drying environment could take many days to dry enough to top coat. | | |
| Q: In the December issue of Woodworker’s Journal you describe applying wax with a random orbital sander and a white nylon abrasive pad. Where can I get this pad material? Is there a band name?
A: There are a number of companies who make it under different brand names, but the most well know is Scotch-Brite™ Light Duty Cleansing Pad. You’ll find it at hardware and home stores, woodworking specialty stores, auto paint stores and even companies that sell bathroom and kitchen cleaning supplies. | | |
| Q: I recently finished a train table for my grandson with Watco Danish Oil. After a week, it still smells more than I want if he is going to have it in his bedroom. How soon can I expect the odor to go away?
A: As soon as the finish cures, which can vary from a few days to a few weeks. How fast that happens depends on how much material you left on, how soon you recoated, if you did, and how warm and dry the room is where the table is curing. Danish oil should be flooded on, allowed to sit for ten minutes, rewet, then wiped off completely and aggressively, leaving only what the wood has absorbed. Assuming you did that, then left it sit in a warm, dry room at least seventy degrees F, it should lose its smell in a few days, but heavier coats, higher humidity and cooler temperatures can all extend the cure time quite a bit. For what it is worth, while the oily smell does not appeal to all, it is not harmful; only distinct. |
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