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| Leave it to the pro. Michael Dresdner, a nationally known wood finishing and woodworking expert, has answered hundreds of common wood finishing questions in Varathane’s Q&A library to help you successfully complete your project. Click on a link to the left for help and solid advice. |
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| Q: We intended to use oil based Varathane polyurethane on our new maple doors and maple veneer kitchen cabinets. We thought the exterior version would be more durable but a store clerk mentioned that certain exterior products actually require sunlight to completely cure, dry hard and a few other minor things.
A: Interior oil based Varathane polyurethane would be my first choice for a kitchen. Exterior is not more durable; in fact in generally has lower abrasion resistance. And no, it does not need sunlight to cure; it cures solely through oxygen polymerization, so all it needs is oxygen to cure.
The real difference in the two has to do with the fact that outdoor wood suffers greater swings in humidity, and thus more wood expansion and contraction through the seasons. That means an exterior finish must be more flexible to allow for this. More flexible generally means softer as well, but it is a reasonable trade off for outdoor work. Some exterior finishes also contain UV blockers and absorbers, which are not necessary for interior pieces, and thus constitute a pointless expense. So, yes, you can use exterior oil based polyurethane on your kitchen, but it will not give you more protection or durability. |  | |
| Q: Would we get better results with floor finish on our kitchen cabinets than oil based polyurethane?
A: Finishes are designed for the specific assaults they are to withstand. Furniture finish must endure hot coffee pots, steam, food and beverage stains, acids, bases, water and solvents in addition to abrasion. Floors must endure abrasion, but also be flexible enough to tolerate dents, yet tough enough to resist shoe abrasion. That’s a bit of a trade off, so some formulators have turned to second generation technology to incorporate both in finishes modified with added minerals or chemically cross linked. They tend to be much more expensive, and in my opinion, overkill, since oil based interior polyurethane is more than up to the task of kitchen wear. In addition, floor finishes are generally formulated to flow out better on a large, horizontal surface, making it more prone to drips and sags on vertical ones. The bottom line is yes, you can use floor finishes for cabinets, but I see no real advantage to doing so. | | |
| Q: Do you know of a solvent for various brands of wood putty?
A: There are several very different materials that share the name wood putty or filler. Oil putty, designed to fill nail holes atop finish, does not ever harden completely and can be washed out with mineral spirits. Putty or filler used on raw wood and designed to dry hard and be sanded can be made with a number of resins, and each has its own solvent. There is also a difference between thinning and trying to soften them after cure. For instance, Varathane Wood Filler can be thinned and cleaned up immediately with water, but after cure will only soften with lacquer thinner, acetone or MEK. Your best bet is to read the label; it should give you a clue as to what solvent works for your product. | | |
| Q: The Varathane floor finish applicator has written on it to rinse with mineral spirits before use. Do I need to leave it wet before use and what is the purpose of doing this?
A: Squeeze out the excess, but leave it wet. Rinsing will help remove loose hairs on the pad before they get into the finish, and will make cleanup easier. Also, a wetted pad will help the finish flow better. |
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